Richard Mille

Founder and name

The watches under the Richard Mille brand are costly, with an average selling price of US $ 180,000, or approximately RMB1.24 million. Far more than our traditional impression of high-end brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Lange. In the market, everyone called Richard Mille “a ticket to a billionaire.” Note, this is talking about “billionaires,” not “millionaires,” and “millionaires.” “Millionaire” to buy Richard Mille needs to be considered, “Millionaire” to buy Richard Mille is still weak. So, a new theory has emerged “The person wearing Real Richard Mille must be Real Rich Man. “

Richard Mille is a very young brand, founded in 1999 and less than 20 years ago. The name of the brand comes directly from the founder, Mr. Richard Mille himself. And Richard Mille often translated as “Richard Miller” on the mainland, but the officially recognized Chinese name is “Richard Mill.” It is similar to the automobile brand Tesla called Tesla, and the official name is “Tuo Sule.”

Richard Mille doesn’t know how to make or repair watches at all. His most significant connection with observations is that he worked in Seiko and French jewelry and watch shop before the age of 50, and engaged in luxury goods marketing and management. At the age of 50, he was only half a century old before he came to create his watch brand. At present, the Richard Mille brand’s annual production is about 4500 pieces, and the cumulative production in 20 years is about 40,000 pieces.

Case

When referring to Richard Mille, it is easy to think of all kinds of nouns, such as “NTPT.” “NTPT” is the abbreviation of “North Thin Ply Technology” in English, a carbon fiber material fabricated in a particular order. Carbon fiber is only half the weight of aluminum, but its toughness is three times that of all. It has the highest weight-to-strength ratio among all materials. The directional strength, torsional stiffness, lateral stiffness, and other specific mechanical properties of finished carbon fiber products (such as watch cases) not only affected Through material itself but also related to the weaving process or pattern structure.

Swiss Renens company developed this kind of carbon fiber technology called “NTPT” as early as 2001. Unlike the traditional weaving method, when NTPT made, each layer of 30-micron carbon fiber and the upper layer will have a 45 ° position. Mobile. Not only the performance of the final product has been improved, but the surface will show a wavy texture like wood, which is very recognizable.

In the early days, this technology used to produce racing sailboats. In 2013, Richard Mille found the “NTPT” company and spent a lot of money to sign long-term cooperation and exclusive supply agreement in the field of watches, so that this material will shine on its products. The same movement is because the watch case uses NTPT, and the watch has a difference of hundreds of thousands of RMB …….

In addition to NTPT, Richard Mille also offers other material cases. It wasn’t until 2013 that Richard Mille opened the ProArt SA factory, which had independent watch case production capacity. The previous products purchased out.

Clasp

If you observe enough, you will also find that Richard Mille’s buckle is very similar to Blancpain and Chanel and uses the same spring structure. Fasteners such as Blancpain and Richard Mille produced by G & F Châtelain. Friends playing antique watches can see their home stamps on the buckle, case, and strap from time to time.

The Châtelain family began to participate in watch production in 1936, focusing on buckle and case polishing. Restarted after World War II, mainly engaged in the production of jewelry and high-end case, Patek Philippe is its user. Although Chanel acquired g & F Châtelain in 1993, it still supplies parts to other companies.

Movement

Richard Mille’s movements mainly divided into two types. Vaucher Fleurier movements used below 300W. APRP movement studios customize 300W + under Audemars Piguet.

“APRP” called “Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi.” “APRP” co-founded by the former employees of Audemars Piguet Dominique Renaud and Giulio Papi in 1986. The main direction of the attack is to design, develop, and produce high-end complex movements without making watches. According to incomplete statistics, the behind-the-scenes technology of many big brands comes from APRP, including Audemars Piguet, Lange, IWC, Chanel, Cartier …

“APRP” initially called “RP.” In 1992, due to financial problems, Dominique Renaud and Giulio Papi sold most of their shares to Audemars Piguet, which entirely controlled by Audemars Piguet, and renamed “APRP.”

Audemars Piguet currently holds nearly 80% of the shares of APRP. According to the contract, Half of the high-end movements produced by APRP must be supplied to Audemars Piguet, and the other half can take out. APRP, as the son of Audemars Piguet, must prioritize meeting the needs of Audemars Piguet. It is embarrassing for Richard Mille, who had no R & D capability before. The weather is shaking, maybe one day, you can’t get the movement from APRP, or APRP is a little smart and sells to Richard Mille defective products, delaying delivery time …

So, for the right long-term cooperation, Richard Mille sold 10% of the shares to Audemars Piguet and became Audemars Piguet’s brother company. Even Richard Miller’s part of the shop handed over to Audemars Piguet.

But this share is not too much, although Richard Mille and Audemars Pig have a relative relationship, but not close enough. Simultaneously, the movements supplied by APRP are complex high-end models, with significant supply waiting times, and the price of the finished watch after assembly is quite high. So Richard Mille had to find another movement supplier to meet the basic needs. Since RM 010, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier has become Richard Mille’s primary source of movement.

Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier belongs to the Sandoz Foundation, and the owner of this foundation is the second largest wealthy Landot family in the Swiss watch industry. Watches and watches are just a sideline of their family. The main department of the Landolt family is Novartis, which is one of the three largest pharmaceutical companies in the world.

Another watch brand, Parmigiani Fleurier, also belongs to the Sandoz Foundation. At the same time, Hermes spent 25 million Swiss francs on buying 25% of the movement factory, so the movement of Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier is mainly for Parma. Johnny, Hermes, and Richard Miller.

The APRP movement fully customized, so we can’t find the specific selling price. Vaucher has selling moves for the open market. In the past few years, its official website has also published conventional movements, The starting price is 50 yuan, and the unit price is about 8,000 yuan. In recent years, the price has risen to about 12,000 yuan.

The Vaucher movement used by Richard Mille is a semi-custom model. The treatment of the entire movement splint, gears, and steel parts is also exceptional. It uses frosting, bright light, and PVD black plating. Even each screw is a specific pentagon, which is more expensive.

Some of Richard Mille’s regular timing models are modules superimposed on the Vaucher movement and not produced by APRP. As for how to distinguish sports from Vaucher or APRP, You can observe the movement. Watch movements using the Vaucher movement will have four corners “little star” Logo.

Performance

Richard Mille often collaborates with sports stars to let them wear watches to participate in various competitions, such as sprinting and tennis. It is easy for consumers to misunderstand that Richard Mille watches can wear for sports. But in fact, such use is straightforward to damage the watch. Although Richard Mille’s watches use a variety of new case materials, and even some styles of movements have specially designed, but they are still a mechanical watch. There is no automatic watch of any brand that can wear for a long time to engage in strenuous activities, including Richard Mille. Just like a person, no matter how much metal armor worn, it is still a carbon-based creature.

Even Richard Mille interviewed by The New York Times that the tennis star Rafael Nadal they sponsored was wearing their watches to play tennis. By the end of 2017, 5 or 6 pieces had destroyed!